Ezy Rider

"Fred, we're thinking of hiring a couple of bikes tomorrow and going for a cruise, go into the countryside, that sort of thing. Does that appeal?"
"Yeah, sounds great!"
"Well how do you feel about being one of the drivers? Have you done much on bikes before?"

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.. Now, the truth is that before then, my total riding experience was almost nil. My biking was confined to the lanes outside of Tom's house on the few occasions we actually got his scooter working, so I've probably ridden a two-wheeled machine of some description for a heady 6 minutes or thereabouts. And I told Jonny this, I was very honest, but also that "despite having a car battery taped to the floor and a very sick bike, it still came quite easily" and that I would be comfortable having a go, providing we could get an automatic or semi-automatic bike.
Next day, we're chatting to one of the many people on the pavement who just have a fleet of about 6 bikes that they rent out to people. 80,000 dong (two pounds and sixty seven pence) got me a Honda Nouvo for the day, in black! Had a quick ride around the block to get used to it, and then we were off! Four bikes that we were, we went down the coastal road for a while, enjoying the sea air and driving through the occasional patch of shade afforded by large trees along the way. Pulled up to check everyone was happy and to take a couple of photos and it was off again! Got onto an abandoned stretch of dual carriageway which led nowhere except past an abandoned and somewhat ghostly resort, and at the end of the road was a roundabout to turnaround and go back on, where we heard slightly deranged and maniacal laughter eminating from the bushes at the side of the road! So we opened the throttle and sped away, avoiding the bits of crumbling tarmac until we were back with civilisation.
We started going into the countryside and immedietely the road deteriorated into gravel and dust, which was kicked up in our wake as we went through villages and rice paddies. We weaved around the occasional cyclist and the odd motorbike when we found ourselves at this bridge about the length of Great Pulteney Street, perhaps a little more. It was barely wide enough for two bikes, but had two-way traffic all the same, and a surprising amount - but then being a bridge, I suppose it's a bottle neck for any traffic that is there. Anyway, we slotted one by one onto the bridge and did our best to keep straight and true over this not terribly straight, nor true bridge. The constant clackclackclack sound of the planks under the wheels reaffirmed any suspicions of ricketyness, I could see each one move as it bore my weight. It made it a lot of fun and gave it a lot of charm, but at the same time it was a shame to be concentrating so hard that I couldn't enjoy the phenomenal views either side of the lake we were crossing and the mountains either side. A couple of wobbles and a near-splash later, I found myself at the other end paying a toll of 6 pence before circling round and parking my bike on the bank with everyone else, where we stopped for a beer and a chill-out at this rather sweet little bar with an incredible backdrop.

After making our way through a bottle each and munching on some grilled rice paper we set off again, over gravelly paths, railway tracks and eventually into a bustling market place and then onto a loud, dense and somehow fluid highway. Intertwining with all the other bikes and cars and ex-Soviet trucks was an exercise of unrelenting concentration and awareness of the space around you, and not having directional hearing made it a massive exercise in checking blindspots, made moreso by the lack of properly adjustable mirrors, all they gave me was an opportunity to admire my torso. Nipping between all the traffic, we eventually came to a rest at the Louisiane Brewhouse, a lovely place on the beach that brews its own beer, has its own pool and beach and is just a very nice place to relax in. What an experience it all was! And so now I really do feel like I have to get a bike licence when I get back to the UK, I think having a bike at uni could be invaluable. And so much cheaper than a car. And yet, I almost feel like it's safer to ride a bike here in Vietnam where everyone rides a bike. Everyone is constantly aware of them, whereas somewhere like the UK which is dominated by cars, no-one properly looks for them at junctions, in blindspots or anything like that. Plus Vietnamese traffic is probably half the speed (although when it's six times the volume, that's a major acheivement).

The evening was rather lovely, the region was celebrating 30yrs since liberation from the Americans and so there was a real buzz about town. We had a special meal and then went down to the beach to watch the fireworks that were being launched out in the water. Everyone was really jolly and there was lots of families and it was all lovely :) Next morning we had to be up early so we didn't bother staying out terribly late to celebrate.

So yesterday saw us out of bed at about 6 in order to prepare ourselves for a morning of snorkelling! We went out on a diveboat to an island where we found all sorts of amazing varieties of colourful fish and coral and all sorts. I even got stung by a jellyfish up the length of my right arm. I didn't even see it, before or after the sting! I've been told that it was probably this sort which is just a long, thin string that sits just below the surface. But it was fantastic, there was a massive octopus and just generally it was so lovely to be back in the water doing that sort of thing, I've always loved snorkelling. I've also decided that I'm going to take up diving. I did some when I was about 15 and really enjoyed it, and university should give me a chance to do it relatively cheaply and get some qualifications under my belt. Perhaps even some of my own kit. I loved it when I did it back then and seeing everyone doing it on this boat really brought it back.

In other news, my travel plans have changed!! It looks like I might be spending a fair amount of my time in Laos - it's much cheaper than Vietnam and still has lovely people and lovely food, or so I'm told. And it's somewhere I know absolutely nothing about, so it really will be a voyage of discovery!! Exciting times :)

Photo-wise, this is going to be in reverse-order......
We've got grilled shellfish on the beach - a lady comes along with stick over her shoulder. Hanging from one end is a big bucket of shellfish, and from the other end are some hot coals to grill them over! So Vy, Jonny and Jasper are tucking into some crabs, but also on offer is lobster for a mere 150,000 Dong - about five pounds.
Then there's a floating village we saw on the way to snorkelling. Fisherman will just live on the water and have their own little fishfarm by their house rather than living on the land and going out to sea all the time.
We also have a fine example of fireworkery, on the celebration of kicking the Americans out!
That is THE bridge.
Lastly is what I was going to show you in the last post - it's a menu from a bar. Click to enlarge it and see what picture they've got to make the idea of a hamburger all the more appealling. Absolutely right, it's a fat kiiiiid!!

Happy Easter!!! xxxxx